17 October 2009

Tivoli Titillation



For the past two months, the main entrance to Tivoli Gardens taunted me as I passed by it on my morning walk from Vesterport station to DIS.  My childlike mind could only imagine and eagerly anticipate entering the gate and seeing what spectacular carnival lay behind the wrought-iron fence and stucco walls that surround an entire city block.  I wouldn't be surprised if the lit-up letters on the entry-arch were permanently imprinted on my retina, for how many times I longingly gazed up at them.  They just radiate an early 20th century charm that screams 'nostalgic glee' (although more so in the summer season, which I unfortunately was unable to experience)!  Cross that with the fact that it's currently decorated for Halloween (my favorite holiday), and you've got me practically bouncing to get in. 

Well, I finally had the opportunity last night, and I made my way down the main path of pumpkin lanterns into a crowded plaza, layered with shop stalls, mature trees, a lake, lighted eclectic buildings, and performance arenas. Amusement rides are packed in between all of that in ways and at angles that I had never thought possible.  Put this into a space of just over 3 square miles, and you'll find yourself a part of something so kitschy that it rivals Dollywood, Disneyland, and Holiday World combined.  It smells of churros as you walk down the tight alley of shops on the southern edge, and you can happily sip on Pumpkin Pale Ale or varm cacao med 'creamy beige' (that's Bailey's, for those of you not in the know).  You can munch on a mass of candy floss in the rain, as it dissolves and leaves tufts of pink fur on your fingers.  You can even speak English and occasionally insert Danish words (but if you do so, expect your friends to make fun of you for it the entire night).  Personally, I didn't know what to be more excited about--being surrounded by jack o'lanterns or the fact that I was in what I now know is the second-oldest amusement park in the world (est. 1843, although if it was still the summer season I'd only have to travel an hour north to visit Dyrehavsbakken, which opened in 1583).

It really is the historical tradition that makes Tivoli so appealing.  Originally built outside the city fortifications, the park is now totally engulfed by an urban environment, but it still manages to expand as an attraction without actually adding any area.  We're talking here about the park that inspired Walt Disney to make Disneyland--both of which operate on a principle of "never being finished." Rutsjebanen (The Roller Coaster) was built in 1914 and was the oldest operating wooden coaster in the world (until 1999 when a park in Pennsylvania renovated a ca. 1902 coaster).  It's so old it was designed to have a breakman riding the coaster to operate it, AND it's still the most popular ride in the park.  I didn't ride it myself, but I might have to if it's still open when I return for the Christmas season.


I decided to try some of the newer rides, like Dæmonen (The Demon, a steel coaster) and Himmelskibet (The Star Flyer), which, standing at 80 meters tall, is not only the tallest carousel in the world, but also just about the tallest thing in Copenhagen.  It was a new experience to be on a coaster in my winter coat, but the view from Himmelskibet just took the cake.  I could hardly breathe from the wind, and as the swings changed their speed and elevation, tilting the seat in different directions, I was torn between feeling a little like I was about to die and  total elation.

But after that was over, I just enjoyed a crisp, drizzly fall evening, as music played and kids screamed.  And when I got home, I curled up in bed and watched some comedy shows on BBC Entertainment.  I need to take more advantage of that channel while I still can.

Tivoli photos are a part of this FB album and start on page 7.
Disclaimer
:  that note about Walt Disney?  It's from Wikipedia.  I hope it's trustworthy.

3 comments:

  1. Do you remember riding that one baby coaster over and over and over at Six Flags...or was that somewhere else? Oh man. We should go to an amusement park together some day.

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  2. hahahaha
    I DO remember that coaster, and how extreme it was for me to try it at that stage in life. And yeah, it was Six Flags Kentucky Kingdom.

    Maybe I can save money (again) this semester and see you. I miss you, always-far-away-girl.

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  3. This post made me smile the whole time I read it. It sounded so fun!

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